Press Articles 2
Tracking: a pastime with varied purposes
By JOHN GIBBONS, Outdoor Tips
While I was walking through the woods with my 5-year-old son Jared
recently, we were checking out animal tracks. The day before, he had asked
me when we were going back into the woods.
Jared and I have been tracking since he was 3. Tracking is an activity
for both young and old, but especially for kids because they are so curious.
That leads to the question: What is the goal of tracking?
Tracking can have nothing to do with hunting or trapping, as it is so
often thought. However, that skill is useful for both. The first goal of a
tracker should be to identify the animal and then try to figure out what the
animal is doing. Consider how it walks, where the tracks lead to, then maybe
even track the animal for a while. Winter is an excellent time to do this
because there is snow on the ground.
Tracking is useful for identifying animals in your area. The first step
is to make a list of all the animal tracks you find in one outing. A good
book on tracking, such as Peterson’s field guides are great places to start.
These books illustrate the tracks and help you identify them. Next, get a
book on good techniques of tracking, like one by well-known survival writer
Tom Brown Jr.
The most important thing is just get out there and learn the easy tracks
like rabbits and deer, then identify as many more as you can. The rest will
follow.
With knives, size matters
By JOHN GIBBONS, Outdoor Tips
In the woods, tools can make your life easier. If you want to build a
fire, you need a saw and an ax.
A saw alone will help you do a lot of work. Splitting wood with an ax or
hatchet will make your fire burn better.
Always gather dry hardwoods. A winter night camping with a hardwood fire
made from hardwoods like beech, oak or maple makes for a great atmosphere.
This brings me to thoughts on camp knives. What would be the best
selection of knives to take on a camping trip?
Many types of knives are useful in camp. A pocket knife will do 80
percent of the work needed around camp. It can cut up game, cut rope, used
to whittle or do kitchen chores.
A good multi tool comes in handy to fix stoves and lanterns. A multi tool
will work well as the only knife because it has a pocket blade in it.
If you want to split wood into small kindling, an ax or hatchet will do a
good job, but a large fixed blade knife can be used for this job. A sheath
knife or folding lock knife with a larger blade of 4 to 6 inches can do all
of the chores a pocket knife will do.
However, a pocket knife is not going to be useful to split wood when you
really need it. If the wood is wet or if you need fine kindling wood, a
large knife can tackle this job. If I could only have one, I would take a
large sheath knife or folding lock blade knife.
Many people do not like lock blade knives. I like the low profile they
put out when carrying them in public.
My pick for the best all around knife is a large folding lock blade
knife. Or why not take all three with you if you can?
In the end, the best knife for you is the one you have on you. It does
you no good if you leave it at home. Many people will argue with me about
which is the best knife. I expect this. We should agree, however, on one
thing — your knife needs to be sharp.
In a survival situation I want a larger fixed blade knife 5 in minimum.
Dine on pine: needles, bark
By John Gibbons, Outdoor Tips
With Christmas fast approaching, my thoughts turn to evergreens. I wonder
have you ever tried pine-needle tea?
The white pine is easily identified by its five needles in a cluster.
This tree is found throughout the North Country.
To get started, clip about a teaspoon of the ends of the new growth
needles. You can use any part of the needle, but the new shiny green growth
is the best for tea.
Next add a cup of boiling water to the clippings. Steep this tea for
about 10 minutes. It is best to strain the water into another cup. This
separates the needles from the liquid. Use a metal strainer for this
operation.
Sweeten the liquid as you would any other tea, and you have a
surprisingly tasty beverage. This tea does not taste like turpentine or
something equally bad, and it is high in vitamin C.
In a survival situation, the pine tree will also provide food where no
other is available. Take a cue from the native Americans who inhabited this
area: Adirondack means bark eater. The inner bark of the white pine is
edible.
Start by taking a hatchet and pounding on a square section of the tree
with the blunt end. Next cut a patch of the bark in a square. Do not go all
the way around the tree. This will kill the tree.
Then, peal back the bark, exposing the inner bark. Many times the inner
bark will come with the outer bark of the tree as you peel. If not, pull the
inner bark off the tree.
This inner bark needs to be dried or boiled to process it for use. If
boiled it can be eaten as is or with other things such as bullion for
flavor. This makes kind of a wild noodle.
If dried, the bark can be pounded into flour and used to make ash cakes,
a dough cooked in the ashes of the fire to make a biscuit. It can also be
eaten as it comes off of the tree.
However, processing it makes it more palatable.
Have a great Christmas and don’t forget that white pine. It is not only
for decoration. It could save your life.
Campfires: Here’s how — and how not
By John Gibbons, Contributing Writer
A long time ago, the only way to cook food in the woods was with a
campfire. Now we have backpacking stoves and liquid fuel. Campfire cooking
seems to have become a lost art. Some say this is a good thing.
Campfires can cause forest fires and deplete the forest of wood in
overused camping areas, and campfires are banned in some areas of the
Adirondacks.
However, to be skilled in the outdoors, a person needs to know how to
build a safe fire. Fires are indispensable in an emergency, to say nothing
of the feeling you get from standing around one. Though I have gone several
nights in the dead of winter without a campfire, the nights with a campfire
were always more cheerful.
It is important to keep the area around the fire free of debris. This
creates a safety zone. Piling mineral soil onto a tarp will create a base
for your fire that can be scattered after use.
You do not need to put rocks around in a ring. This just creates scarred
rocks. Remember to keep the fire small and never burn wood larger than your
wrist.
Gather only dead and downed wood. Do not peel birch trees for tinder.
This hurts the tree and leaves a scar. You can usually find birch bark on
the ground. Consider using other tinder. Fine-shaved pieces of wood from
dead and down trees make great tinder. A saw and an ax or hatchet will go a
long way to help gather and, if need be, split good dead wood.
What is the best fire? A tepee fire or a log-cabin fire is what I
recommend. A tepee fire has sticks piled vertically in a circle to form a
tepee. This fire is great for making a hot fire or producing good cooking
coals.
Always cook food on the coals of a fire. The log-cabin fire is formed by
placing sticks horizontally in a criss-cross manner. This fire puts out a
lot of warmth. It burns slower and is a good fire for sitting around. So
what is the best fire? It depends on its use.
Bean-hole beans: a campsite staple
By John Gibbons, Outdoor Tips
No camp experience would be complete without making baked
beans in a bean hole. In days gone by, beans were a staple of camp life. Now
we have dehydrated foods and lots of canned goods.
In the old days, you used dried goods in camp. If you
want to reach for a little piece of history, make some camp beans. Don’t
forget the bannock, bacon and coffee to round out that traditional
experience.
To begin, Take a pound of dry navy beans and wash them.
Be sure to pick out any stones.
Soak these beans in water overnight. In the morning, put
the beans in your pot and cover them with two inches of water. Put the
kettle on to boil.
Simmer the beans until the skins pop open when you blow
on them. Take them off the stove and drain the water. Reserve two cups of
the bean water.
This should take about 45 minutes.
While the beans are boiling, dig a hole in the ground.
The hole should be one foot deeper than the size of the pot and 1½ feet
larger in diameter.
Line the hole with rocks. Do not use river stones, as
they may explode.
I get asked the question: Do you have to line the hole
with rocks?
The answer is no, but it will work better with the rocks.
Next, build a fire in the hole. Let the fire burn down to
coals. Shovel out the coals.
Next, add the following to the beans:
Now, add the two cups of water, plus enough to cover the
beans. Stir the mixture up and place the pot with the lid on it and handles
up in the hole.
Shovel the coals back in around the pot and cover with
coals and a layer of dirt. Leave the handle out so you can find it.
Cook for six to eight hours.Carefully uncover the pot. If
you have never had beans cooked this way, you are in for a treat and you
will experience a little piece of history.
The cattail can be the staff of life out in the wilds
By John Gibbons
My grandfather, Euell Gibbons, was enamored of the common cattail. I was
thinking about this as I was hiking around the Paul Smiths Visitor
Interpretive Center early last fall. I was impressed with the number of
cattails in the bog area.
If you want to enjoy wild foods, you really need to learn about only 20
plants. A good place to start is by reading Grandpa’s book "Stalking the
Wild Asparagus."
The first and one of the most important wild foods you should learn is
the common cattail, Typha latifolia. Grandfather called these plants
"the supermarket of the swamps."
You will find these plants in wetland areas. They are common in the
Champlain Valley but harder to find in the Adirondack Mountain areas.
The cattail is easily found by locating last year’s stalks, which are
long, sword-like leaves. Then look for a cigar-shaped, furry seed head
sitting atop a slender reed, a sign of last year’s crop. In the spring and
summer, the cattail leaves are green, but they turn brown in the fall.
The cattail has five edible parts.
The young shoots can be cooked like asparagus. They are referred to as
"Cossack asparagus." The green seed pods can be boiled like corn on the cob
and are called "cat on the cob."
The pollen that forms on the seedhead can be mixed with flour to form a
great additive. The rootstock, or rhizome, can be opened and mashed in a
slurry of water. The water is then poured off, and what remains is a wet
flour that can be used to bake with.
Finally, a soft spike at the end of the rootstock can be boiled and
eaten.
The cattail can provide food in a survival situation, either raw or
boiled. It can provide a source of flour and an additive to extend flour.
It can also help in other ways by providing reeds for baskets or mats.
The fluff that forms on the seed head can be used as an insulation in the
fall or winter by stuffing it into your clothing.
The same fluff will help catch a spark when using spark-based fire
starting. Add a mixture of birch bark and fluff together to get a fire
started.
The cattail is an important plant. It is one of the first
you should learn.
Take no chances: pack survival kit
By John Gibbons, Contributing Writer
I am writing this with a hot cup of coffee in hand. I think about how
warm and content I am. Instead, I could be outside, cold and in need of
protection. This got me thinking about what we really need in an emergency
or survival situation. It also made me think of the statement, "Anyone who
goes afield should take a survival kit with him or her for emergencies."
Why take a survival kit? A good survival kit will provide the necessities
when you really need them. Every good survival kit should start with
clothing. Start out by wearing and taking clothing that will keep you warm
and comfortable during a night out in the woods. This may mean carrying a
down jacket in a day pack. Always layer your clothing so you do not overly
perspire. Getting wet cools you down. Carry a wool hat and mittens.
Many people have died because of exposure. Exposure is hypothermia, a
cooling of your core temperature to the point of death, or hyperthermia, the
heating of your body temperature to the point of death. Exposure is the No.
1 cause of death in a survival situation.
The next important cause of death is dehydration, lack of water. If these
two problems are taken care of, a healthy person could live several weeks
with hunger as the side effect. Learning to fish, trap and gather wild foods
will aid in preventing hunger. However, it is no guarantee of eating.
So what should you bring? The correct clothing, a multi-tool knife, a
collapsable water container, water-purification tablets, a magnesium fire
starter, fire-starting fuel (Vaseline and cotton), 50 feet of parachute
cord, a small compass, two large garbage bags (contractor’s size) for
shelter, 25 feet of wire for snares (22 guage), 25 feet of fish line, fish
hooks, two rubber worms, sinkers, a small metal pot or cup and a bandana
that can be used as a bandage. Add more if you want. When you think about
what could happen to you, a survival kit just makes good sense to take
along.
Sparks can fuel the flames of survival
By JOHN GIBBIONS
Fire is very important in a survival situation. Without fire you cannot
purify water, regain lost heat or cook food.
I remember the first time I made fire with flint and steel. I struck a
small piece of flint that I purchased from a black-powder dealer to a steel
file. The spark shot down onto a mixture of Vaseline and cotton. It lighted
right away. The key is to guide the steel down across the flint. In this way
you can aim the shower of sparks.
You can make the Vaseline and cotton mixture by smearing a gob of
Vaseline onto three all-cotton cotton balls. Then simply work the Vaseline
into the cotton. I store my mixture in an empty 35 mm film container. I keep
it in the top pocket of my vest with an artificial flint called a magnesium
fire starter. If you have never used one of these little gems, I suggest you
buy one. They are inexpensive and can be found at many sporting goods
stores.
The magnesium fire starter takes some practice, but once you learn to use
it, you will never want to be without one. The fire starter has an
artificial flint imbedded into a block of magnesium. Magnesium is scraped
off a block on the starter with a knife or quartz rock. These scrapings are
best piled on to a small amount of birch bark.
Buff the bark by rolling it back and forth with your hand against your
pants leg. This will break up the fibers. Now make a little nest with the
bark and scrape the magnesium onto the bark in a little pile. Using a knife
or quartz rock, scrape across the artificial flint to make a spark. Direct
the spark onto the pile of magnesium. This takes a little practice. The pile
will light and set the birch bark ablaze.
Why not just use a lighter?
I have found in windy and wet conditions that using the Vaseline and
cotton mixture with a fire starter will work every time. A lighter tends to
blow out, can run out of fuel, and will deteriorate with age. The magnesium
fire starter will stay ready when lighters and matches become ruined.
The next step is true flint and steel. By learning these skills you just
increase you chances of starting a fire when you need one. But remember, you
have to practice.
Bread on open fire rounds out breakfast
By JOHN GIBBONS
Taking an old-time camping trip can be a great way to
appreciate how our forefathers did it. A couple of years ago, my friend Rick
and I canoed to Little Square Pond in the St. Regis Canoe Area for a
three-day trip. We were going in by canoe, and we carried only a tarp to
sleep under and planned to cook on an open fire.
We brought with us only the basics that included the
three traditional old-time camping staples — beans, flour and bacon, the
latter the cured kind that keeps well.
At camp, I boiled the bacon in a few inches of water in
the frying pan and then fried it to a golden crisp.
Then I made that traditional trail-bread bannock for our
morning meal to go with the bacon. The recipe is really simple. Here are the
ingredients: